Climbing's Olympic debut: the new crux
By Mariana Duran
With the rising popularity of rock climbing after its Olympic debut, it is safe to say that the vertical world of walls has changed forever.
In the Mustang district of Nepal, lay 10,000 burial caves dating back to the 8th century that can only be reached by scaling the vertical cliff 155 feet above the valley floor.
Towards the southwest in the United States you will find the ruins of the Pueblo people’s village constructed into the side of the Mesa cliffs during the 13th century.
Though unnatural, humans have been pushing the limits of climbing for centuries usually out of necessity to access sacred caves, escape danger, or gather food.
These days you can locate several climbers in your cities-- spending their nights after work in tall warehouses with poor air circulation, fitted with plastic holds meant to simulate the feeling of rock outside.
Since rock climbing’s Olympic debut last year with millions at home watching, attendance in these gyms has gone up significantly.
The world was captivated by the stage in Tokyo as we watched the best climbers compete in 3 categories that would be tallied up for one total score, the lowest score being the winner.
Bouldering is a competition where competitors climb as many 4.5 meter routes as possible with no ropes within 4 minutes, focusing on strength and problem-solving.
The following category is lead climbing where the routes are 15 meters and climbers use ropes to protect against a fall while they attempt to climb as high as they can in under 6 minutes.
Lastly, speed climbing is where competitors climb the wall as fast as they can.
This new introduction could open so many doors for aspiring athletes that want to hit the big leagues.
“It solidifies climbing as a sport in the public’s eye,” says Michelle Bandoja, a Riverside local that's been climbing for 8 years. “Which in turn means non-profits can ask for money from local or state governments to help keep our outdoor climbing areas clean and accessible to everyone."
However, there is the other side of the coin too.
More people becoming interested in the sport means not only more crowds at the local gym but also an increase in competition for coveted sponsorships, as well as the overuse of outdoor climbing areas.
Since modern-day climbing began in the 1970's, there has been tension between climbers and National Park rangers, with restrictions being put in place after Warren Harding, one of Yosemite's original climbers used 300 new bolts during a single climb.
While climbing is not illegal in National Parks, the misuse of these areas such as bolting new routes where it is prohibited is what causes these crags to become off limits.
More people crowding outdoor crags will almost certainly draw the attention of park officials, especially if they are being used carelessly.
It is more than just climber access at risk, it is the very well-being of the land too. Simply put, the more foot traffic the more these areas degrade. From vegetation being trampled, graffiti, to trash and human waste being strewn about.
“These new climbers don’t know outdoor etiquette and [the principles of] Leave no Trace. It’s up to the seasoned community to teach them how to properly maintain our crags” said Michelle Bandoja.
As with anything taking shape in a new direction, there will always be some uncertainties that will need to be ironed out.
But one thing is for sure: with its popularity climbing faster than ever, the sport has yet to reach its peak.