Best Surf Conditions
By: Ciaran Mann
Surfing is one of the most popular extreme water sports in the world with ever changing conditions; the ocean can be extremely difficult to read at times which makes it extremely frustrating. Frequent surfers are familiar with the disappointment that comes with the lack of swell and poor conditions that may hit your coastline from time to time. In order to have the most successful surf session possible, it is important to understand the basics of how to read a surf report and how it will affect the spot looking to be surfed.
Ocean swell is required for a good surf session. If there is a lack of energy in the water, then there are no waves to surf. Swell is the product of wind energy, often produced by mid ocean storms that move toward the coastline The harder and longer the wind blows, the bigger the waves the swell produces. Once the swell hits the coastline, sandbars in shallow waters cause the waves to break, completing the full cycle of the wave. Swell direction is also very important to know what beach will be the best to surf.
Since the coastline is jagged, sitting at all different angles, the swell direction is very important as some beaches break better on specific swell direction. The swell interval period is the last important aspect of a good swell. Usually, a good swell is indicated by a long interval period that usually ranges from 13-22 seconds. You can find a swell’s interval period by looking at the buoy closest to the beach you are surfing. Although swell is a vital part of a good surf session because it creates the waves in which are surfed, many other factors play a key role in making a surfers dream.
Wind is arguably the next most important factor when it comes to a great surf session.
The best surf sessions usually take place with an offshore wind. Offshore wind is a wind that blows from the land out to the sea. This usually ensures that the waves will form and break much more cleanly. A bad strong wind can kill a break, making the water choppy and ruining the shape of the waves making them not rideable. The best time to surf almost anywhere is at sunrise or sunset because it usually has the lightest wind. Wind direction and power can be a huge make or break when it comes to getting the best
The tide and what lies underneath the ocean is the last extremely important factor to look at when planning your next surf session. High tide and low tide are a result of the moon's gravitational pull and change at a period of about every six hours. Some surf spots work better on a high tide, some on a low, some on a transition between the two, and some can be good on both high and low. This being said, it all depends on what lies beneath the ocean and the sandbar. A steep, shallow sandbar causes a more sudden breaking wave that usually barrels more and is much heavier while a slowly inclining sandbar makes for softer breaking waves that have a little less power.
At some spots, if the tide is too high, the spot will get “flooded” meaning there is too much water making the waves roll longer to more shallow water making them harder to get on. Too high of a tide can ruin some spots but on the other hand, too low of a tide can do the same. A spot that doesn't work as well on a low tide can cause dangerous shore break and if the spot has a rocky floor, sometimes those rocks will be revealed causing additional hazard. It is very important to know what a low tide and high tide is and what it does to the specific beach that the conditions are best to paddle out at.
Surfing is a sport that depends solely on nature. As a result of the oceans ever changing conditions, it is very important to become familiar with how these factors affect the waves to insure a more successful surf session.
With a strong knowledge of the coastlines and knowledge of what conditions work best for the local surf spots, beginners and experts can take advantage of every swell and get the most out of it taking your surfing to the next level!