WILLY CHAVARRIA infuses elements of romanticism, Chicano culture, queerness, masculinity, feminity and work wear all into his 2023 Autumn/Winter collection, "Kangaroo."

By Consuelo de Veranó

Wily Chavarria’s fashion label, "WILLY CHAVARRIA," is a love letter to the concept of silhouettes. When examining Chavarria’s collections, it is clear that the New York City-based designer makes his presence known in fashion by taking up as much space as possible. Chavarria has built a reputation for himself by combining aspects of his queer and Chicano identity with camp elements, and all eyes were on him this past New York Fashion Week.

Strong shoulders and bold outlines dominate Chavarria’s silhouettes. They are especially prominent in his Spring/Summer collection, "Please Rise," which featured many exaggerated coats and shoulders. However, for his Autumn/Winter titled "Kangaroo," Chavarria opted for more romantic, soft and borderline reverent shapes. His collection was shown at the Cooper Hewitt Smithsonian Design Museum and was live-streamed for hundreds of viewers on Instagram.

The show began with an announcement from Maria Nicanor, the director of Chavarria’s venue, the Cooper Hewitt, Smithsonian Design Museum. After Nicanor’s welcome, the room was filled with music from the live string quartet, and in entered the evening’s voice, Dorian Wood.

Wood was singing "Piensa en Mi" while walking down an ornate set of carpeted stairs in "Look 35." The outfit features a large puff collar, and Wood is sporting a large, white flower in her hair, which had been slicked back tightly. It was a clean, gently masculine, elegant look which it set the tone for the collection.

Source: Vogue Runway Willy Chavarria Fall 2023 Menswear Collection

Chavarria claims that by infusing his garments with oversized, Chicano silhouettes, he is reclaiming space with his work. "Kangaroo" is Chavarria’s most serious collection to date, and he manages to keep elements light by playing with softer shapes in his designs. In "Look 15," the model is sporting a completely oversized look, from the billowing white bowtie acting as a centerpiece, to the deep black jacket jutting out to the sides, the elements alone are borderline camp, and yet together, they create a reverent essence.

The show was starting to wind down as the last outfit came down the staircase. If "Kangaroo" as a collection is serious, then "Look 34" is solemn and sacred. Chavarria’s workwear influences come through exceptionally well in the details.

The coat itself seems to have a plastic-like texture to it; the gloves are a slightly denser material than the coat, but they are the same pitch black. The coat features a skinny and round collar. The waist is cinched by a single button, and the garment hits the ground allowing a peak of the pants, which are the same hypnotic black as the coat, to show.

All the models walked out onto the runway for their final lap as everyone, both in person or on the live stream, cheered. Chavarria escorted Dorian off the runway; she blew him a kiss while he was holding her hand, and his smile radiated pride. Chavarria was sporting "Look 36" himself. It is an oversized black tee tucked into solid black pants, and accessorized with trapezoidal glasses and various necklaces.

The title for his collection, "Kangaroo," was inspired by the 80s love song of the same name by "This Mortal Coil." The song is about the first time this singer met his girlfriend, and the sound is completely sublime. "Kangaroo" is a darkly romantic collection and is classically Chavarria, classically Chavarria. With the use of these feminine shapes and textures, this queer, Chicano work-wear-inspired collection has become sacred. Because of the feminine textures and shapes used, this queer, Chicano work-wear-inspired collection has become sacred. Down to the location of where "Kangaroo" was shown, this line is reclaiming any spaces that were previously off-limits and making itself known.

Chavarria's Romanticism: Willy Chavarria Autumn/Winter 2023